Skimboard Pallets 2

 

Great day in the water…knee to waist high waves on the funboard taking off backside and switchfooting to frontside while still going down the line…definitely been getting practice in on that move recently…hope it pays off.

Got back to the pad at Islandize and worked on these WIPs generally botching it up with spray paint:

 

Re start #852thegrapevine #botchjob #rotkneesurfer #rksdaily #islandizehk

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A tip from a true cretin – chicken grease (such as that from fast food chicken) is great for getting spray paint off your hands. RKS out…lol

Glow in the surf

Wish we had the gopro yesterday – surfed after dark with the bioluminescent plankton lighting up between me and Josh’s fingers, sloshing onto the board as we take off…

Tried Josh’s new LSD Fish, it pumps like a dream

Designs to Free Your Mind

Went down to BWB for a dip, bumped into these lads Nick n Javi…Nick had just come in from riding his McCoy and let me go try it…rest of the story is in captions

 

Loaded dome, designs to free your mind. Convex bottom contour; apical dome forms fore and aft. Gullwing fin too for extra discovery.

This board is so buoyant – at 6’2″ the McCoy nugget was beyond my power to duckdive  so had me turtle rolling every paddle out. First experience on a displacement hull – paddling it reminded me of a canoe. Lots of volume in the upper half of the board made paddling a dream although it took some time to figure out the weight distribution while paddling, given McCoy’s otherworldly pattern of volume distribution.

Subjectively – surprisingly loose through turns yet holds well down the line, versatile with ability to stall or go fast. A hyper-buoyant switchfoot dancefloor. Gets tail lift when paddling, take-offs a slo-mo dream.

 

Felt like I won the lottery being able to try Nick’s McCoy! Super stoked and mind blown. Definitely ended up being a memorable day at the bay…

Even tried out some Hatha yoga afterwards with L in Causeway Bay and met many new surfer friends haha. Sweet.

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Oliver Twist

An Oliver Twist day – when you’re scrounging for slops like the local break were an orphanage -and slop indeed it was today @ BWB…ankle high at 4pm, progressing to knee high closeouts by 6 pm. Got out the water at 6:40.

Chilled with my mates W and K. Group warmup on the sand like true kooks. Took the red foamie out. Only good wave I caught was a decent knee-to-waist-high backside, switching foot to goofy stance frontside and managing to stay in trim on the green…victory dancing result, with dance moves being named the Oliver Twist. That and general ballerina-ing on the foamie and purposefully getting in #localsonly (DT’s) way…

First time (gently) skimboarding also since surgery…felt super good to break into a decent pace and chase the board along the beach.

Day at the bay with the sloppy surf, good vibes, and kookery aplenty…