Oliver Twist

An Oliver Twist day – when you’re scrounging for slops like the local break were an orphanage -and slop indeed it was today @ BWB…ankle high at 4pm, progressing to knee high closeouts by 6 pm. Got out the water at 6:40.

Chilled with my mates W and K. Group warmup on the sand like true kooks. Took the red foamie out. Only good wave I caught was a decent knee-to-waist-high backside, switching foot to goofy stance frontside and managing to stay in trim on the green…victory dancing result, with dance moves being named the Oliver Twist. That and general ballerina-ing on the foamie and purposefully getting in #localsonly (DT’s) way…

First time (gently) skimboarding also since surgery…felt super good to break into a decent pace and chase the board along the beach.

Day at the bay with the sloppy surf, good vibes, and kookery aplenty…

 

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