Surflog 22 Feb

BWB must be something like the world’s capital of closeouts. The world’s premier closeout break.

Noon – 6pm in the water. Mushy, messy outside, fast closeouts inside. Shoulder high. Wave period something like 6 seconds.

Spent most of the day eating brine as my leg betrayed me pop-up after pop-up. Got some decent liners. Could do much better.

Tried a beater funboard (5’4″ i think) foam top with quad fins…two regular leading fins near the rail and two stubs behind them, closer in to the centreline…ate it on every wave going straight from mushy to pitching in 3 seconds – to closeout in 5. My mate Will had a good session though getting four turns on a wave (bottom, top, bottom, top – a BWB miracle of sorts) and was stoked.

Nice to sit out in the drizzle and freeze. Used the ARK board and the funboard a bit too. Uneventful – just doing the kooky ballerina switchfoot. ARK felt good to pump. Wish the knee would let me squat lower and takeoff at normal agility.

 

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