So cold that my mate RJ went double wetsuit lol #kookoftheday but I confess it was a good idea!!

Nice day at BWB. Cold AF and gloomy. Messy shoulder high sets…cleanup sets.

26 days off the operating table~

Rule of the web: getting greenfaced without pictures = didn’t happen…

Thinking positively: this means there is no proof anyone was in the water today…

Got some sick green ones front and back…missed that handstall glidey funboard feeling…greenfaced despite knee…

Sad that can’t bend knee enough to duckdive or kick on shortboard, but cant ask for too mucho

Stuck inside on cleanup set with this knee and funboard = not eww yews

Messy and everyone in left pocket or funboards = some eww yew lines n floaters indeed

GREENFACED : an experience/mindstate/expression of or after actually taking a line across a nice green ridable wave which is rare at the local closeouts

Saw some very delicious quiver gems…first a Sprout twin fish…and then a freakin’ Campbell Bros Bonzer…and as if it couldn’t get better a McCoy loaded dome after that. Being stuck indoors with a bad knee, time to kill and a the internt makes one learn and appreciate so much about boards. Crazy how much one can learn on the internet about things that were around before they were even born yet. And so mind blown to see these designs I read about in front of mine eyes. Gone full Golum looking at these precious’.


TLDR: 2nd surf since op, cold AF, great boards and super refreshing green faces for RKS…and friends and good vibes as always


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s