An Oliver Twist day – when you’re scrounging for slops like the local break were an orphanage -and slop indeed it was today @ BWB…ankle high at 4pm, progressing to knee high closeouts by 6 pm. Got out the water at 6:40.
Chilled with my mates W and K. Group warmup on the sand like true kooks. Took the red foamie out. Only good wave I caught was a decent knee-to-waist-high backside, switching foot to goofy stance frontside and managing to stay in trim on the green…victory dancing result, with dance moves being named the Oliver Twist. That and general ballerina-ing on the foamie and purposefully getting in #localsonly (DT’s) way…
First time (gently) skimboarding also since surgery…felt super good to break into a decent pace and chase the board along the beach.
Day at the bay with the sloppy surf, good vibes, and kookery aplenty…
BWB must be something like the world’s capital of closeouts. The world’s premier closeout break.
Noon – 6pm in the water. Mushy, messy outside, fast closeouts inside. Shoulder high. Wave period something like 6 seconds.
Spent most of the day eating brine as my leg betrayed me pop-up after pop-up. Got some decent liners. Could do much better.
Tried a beater funboard (5’4″ i think) foam top with quad fins…two regular leading fins near the rail and two stubs behind them, closer in to the centreline…ate it on every wave going straight from mushy to pitching in 3 seconds – to closeout in 5. My mate Will had a good session though getting four turns on a wave (bottom, top, bottom, top – a BWB miracle of sorts) and was stoked.
Nice to sit out in the drizzle and freeze. Used the ARK board and the funboard a bit too. Uneventful – just doing the kooky ballerina switchfoot. ARK felt good to pump. Wish the knee would let me squat lower and takeoff at normal agility.
Not a bad way to spend a Sunday (second to getting wet)…
This book + google = major wonders.
By Richard Kenvin @Hydrodynamica
Came into a flat BWB to chill and pick up the tail half of my mates snapped board…walk into the holok lockers area and bump into him. I saw that he was sawing something. Upon taking a closer look he’s making a neat little rack to put in the locker for the short boards to go on so a bag can go underneath…
Those planks of salvaged jetsam wood seem like they’ll work out well.
In other news, got back on a fiberglass board today…finally got to test out the new ARK board. Caught some knee high closeouts aka the best BWB had to offer today… 6’2″ packed some extra volume to help my unfit ass with the chase. Stoke ended there though…two waves of no-fun knee high and I switched back to the funboard. BWB the 3rd world of waves today…hah.
Felt good to be able to kick water on a shortie \~/
Swung by the SKW O’Neill on the way in to Shek O and ended up chilling with David for a bit and looking at boards at East Swell Boardshop. O’Neill x East Swell opened their SKW store and it has some awesome surf art by Blackie and a couple of McKill boards on display. More pertinently the shop has its own fitted repair bay. Awesome.
Good vibes at East Swell in the evening, watched David the master do some ding repair, beer and music bumping…oh and these:
Another day of waist high closeouts so I’m just chillin as a kook does trying switchfoot (inspired by KC, a surfer I look up to) and also trying to walk, spin around like you see in longboarding clips. After falling off during halfway thru spin my mate Joey comments: “This ain’t ballet!” lol.
Thus the ballerina switchfoot style of surfing is born, inspired by that little joke. Originating from BWB, this pioneering style emphasizes wiping out like a kook (especially falling backwards onto the wave instead of forward) and generally botching attempts to do tricks you obviously cannot do yet~